Difference between Humectant, Emollient and Occlusive

In the past, you’ve probably picked out moisturizers based on the marketing claims made by big brands. But have you ever thought of different types of moisturizers?

Based on the ingredients of a particular product, it includes moisturizers can be broken down into three main categories: humectant, emollient, and occlusive.

Let’s discuss them deeply & understand what’s the difference between them? And which one should you choose according to your skin type?

Click for more articles on Skin and skincare

SKIN BARRIER & NMF

In order to discuss the different types of moisturizers, we’ll need a brief analysis on the structure and function of the skin barrier.

The stratum corneum, the top layer of the epidermis, is the main barrier of the skin and is very important in maintaining hydrophilic balance.

It consists of dead skin cells held together by a lipid matrix composed of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids.

Another component of the stratum corneum is Natural Moisturizing Factor. NMF is responsible to maintain adequate skin hydration.

The NMF can become depleted with growing age and also from routine exposure to sunlight & sensitizing ingredients like drying cleansing agents and denatured alcohol. This leads to visibly dry, tight-feeling, flaky skin.

What are Humectants?

A humectant is a hygroscopic substance with several water loving groups, such as hydroxyl groups (OH) and amine groups (NH2).

The OH and NH2 groups hydrogen bond with water, essentially attracting it and binding it on the skin. Humectants pull water from the dermis & brings it to the stratum corneum.

In addition, humectants can draw water vapour from the air to help moisturize the skin if the humidity is over 60 percent. Some of the Humectants are as follows: -

- Hyaluronic acid
- Urea
- Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs)
- Amino acids
- Peptides
- Sugar alcohols (glycerine, sorbitol, xylitol, etc.)
- Alovera
- Honey

Humectant products can be used by all skin types, but they are best for those with normal to slightly dry skin.

They help to keep the skin hydrated & promote the shedding of dead cells by breaking them down to proteins.

Humectants provide temporary anti-aging effects which effectively plumps out the skin and makes lines and wrinkles less noticeable.

However, this effect is short term – as soon as the moisture content in skin decreases, lines and wrinkles will return to its normal size.

Using high percentage of humectants in skincare products makes skin looks plump & glowy that eventually minimizes signs of ageing.

What are Emollients?

An emollient is an oily substance that fills in the spaces between dead skin cells, by creating a smooth skin surface.

Basically, an emollient is a film forming substance that makes the skin feel good and looks smooth & silky.

The primary function of an emollient is to help soften the skin. Some of the Emollients are as follows: -

- Butters
- Oils
- Esters
- Lipids
- Fatty acids
- Ceramides

Emollient ingredients help to repair the skin barrier function. The skin barrier is composed of dead skin cells held together by a lipid pattern.

Without these lipids, the barrier is depleted. A drained or depleted barrier leads to Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and may allow harmful things like allergens, bacteria, and irritants to pass through into the deeper layers of skin that leads to dryness, itching, and irritation, and may eventually cause skin conditions such as acne, eczema, sensitive skin, and even signs of aging.

Using emollients can help to fill in the spaces between dead skin cells where the barrier has been exhausted, leading to soft hydrated skin. Everyone has some benefit from an emollient product.

Emollients used in your skincare is really important to suit a particular skin type. For example, those with oily or acne prone skin should avoid products with emollients, such as coconut oil and avocado oil, and only use products with emollients, such as jojoba oil, safflower oil to prevent clogged pores and acne breakouts.

Click for more articles on Hair Care

What are Occlusive?

Occlusive moisturizers work by creating a physical barrier on the epidermis that helps prevent trans-epidermal water loss. They feel thick, sticky and heavy on application since they are not absorbed into the skin. Some of the Occlusive are as follows: -

- Petrolatum
- Mineral oil
- Lanolin
- Waxes
- Silicones
- Shea Butter

Since occlusive ingredients form a protective barrier on the surface of skin, they are best for those with very dry skin and conditions like eczema etc.

Applying an occlusive moisturizer immediately after bathing is very much effective way to trap additional water in to the skin.

Those with oily or acne-prone skin should avoid most occlusive except silicones. Upon application of silicones to the skin, this lattice enables silicones to form a film on the surface while still allowing skin to “breathe”.

Most silicones have an ideal quality for preventing Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) – that prevents dehydrated skin. Silicones have light feel & do not clog pores, so they cannot cause acne.

Comparison: Humectant, Emollient or Occlusive?

Now that you know the difference between humectant, emollient, and occlusive moisturizers, you can probably see that there are advantages and disadvantages with each type.

Thus, one type is not necessarily better than the other. Always look out for products that have perfect combination all three of these in one formula.

The humectant will draw in moisture while the occlusive will lock in that moisture in, and the emollient will keep the skin soft, smooth & silky.

Always go for the product which have combination of all 3 ingredients in it.

Follow this table for the best results: -

TypeWhat it doesWho it’s forCommon IngredientsHumectantsPull water into the skin.Oily or combination SkinHyaluronic acid, Urea, Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), Amino acids, Peptides, Sugar alcohols (glycerine, sorbitol, xyltol, etc.) i,Alovera, HoneyEmollientsRestores the skin barrier to soften skin texture.Dry skin or normal skinButters, Oils, Esters, Lipids, Fatty acids, CeramidesOcclusiveCreate a barrier over the skin to trap moisture.Dry or damaged skinPetrolatum, Mineral oil, Lanolin, Waxes, Silicones, Shea Butter

 “Your Skin will only ever be as good as your Skincare Routine.” – Nidhi Gudwani

By NIDHI GUDWANIAuthor is CEO at SKINAYU ORGANICS

Click here for more articles on Cosmetics

Click for more articles of the Author

Does Skin’s pH Really matters ?

Skincare: Conditions beyond self-care

Steps for Skincare Regime (Part-2)

Steps for Skincare Regime (Part-1)

Oil cleansers: Everything you need to know about this innovation

8 ways to prevent skin problems from face mask

Benefits of using Sodium Hyaluronate on Skin

5 Benefits of using Niacinamide in Skincare cosmetics

7 Tips for Handling & Storage of Skincare products

Steps in Skin-Prep for flawless makeup

5 Reasons & Healing Tips for Cracked Heels

Natural Ingredients for Skin brightening and removing Sun Tan

6 Tips for Skin & Hair care during winters

10 Ways & Tips to get Healthy-Lustrous Hair

Pure Rose Water: Benefits and Uses

8 Best Oils for Healthy Hair: Tips for their application

Hair Conditioners: Myths and Facts related to them

Know your Skin type & Tips for it’s care accordingly

When should one start using Anti-Ageing Products?

7 Benefits of including FACE MIST in your Skincare Regime

Why to prefer organic emulsifiers over traditional ones ?

Why to include Peptides in your Skincare Products ?

7 Tips Every Men Should Follow In Healthy Skincare Regime

6 Tips to remove every bit of your Makeup

6 ways to pamper your Skin with self Skincare routine

6 reasons: How Gel creams are different from traditional cold creams

3 Tips: How to choose your Personal Care products

Changes in Skincare trends during the Pandemic
https://thehealthmaster.com/2022/03/01/difference-between-humectant-emollient-and-occlusive/