Formulating with Alternate Ingredients that are "CLEAN-GREEN & SAFE" for the environment & skin

Continue from Part 1...................

On this topic, we have already discussed Part 1 where we discussed everything about

- Introduction to 'Clean’, ‘Green’ & ‘Safe’ Ingredients
- What is' Free From 'or’ NO List 'of Formulations?
- Alternatives to traditionally used harsh ingredients (1-3)
- Challenges in formulating and using "CLEAN-GREEN & SAFE" cosmetics (1-3)

Part 2-we’ll discuss everything about

- Alternatives to traditionally used harsh ingredients (4-7)
- Challenges in formulating & using ‘CLEAN- GREEN & SAFE’ COSMETICS (4-7)

Part 3 – Spotlight on

-  Solution & Conclusion on CLEAN- GREEN & SAFE Cosmetics

Alternatives to traditionally used harsh ingredients & challenges faced (4-7)

4. Emulsifiers

All emulsions are made from water and oils. As we know, oil and water do not mix. We have to use an emulsifier to bind these two phases together.

Emulsifiers help to blend non-miscible ingredients together.  They have both hydrophilic (water-loving) and lipophilic parts(oil-loving) in the same molecule.

This enables an emulsifier to bring oil (lipophilic) and water (hydrophilic) phases together. Traditional emulsifiers usually don’t have superb rheology & texture.

They need to be HLB balanced. But, nowadays emulsifiers are HLB-free. More and more natural-based certified emulsifiers are capturing the market & replacing traditional emulsifiers.

Alternatives to these traditional emulsifiers are sustainably derived from natural ingredients and are organically certified.

Some of the organically certified emulsifiers are Olivem 1000, Natragem EW, and Emulgade PL are some of the organic certified emulsifiers.

They have gained popularity as natural alternatives as they are not harsh on the skin & are sustainably sourced from natural origin. They give superb rheology & texture to the finished product.

The shortcomings of these natural-based emulsifiers are their cost. They are 4 to 5 times more expensive than traditional emulsifiers. This eventually increases the cost of the end product.

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5. Stabilizers

Every formulation needs stabilizers to stabilize the product throughout its shelf life. To maintain the efficacy of the product throughout its shelf life, it's important to add certain stabilizing agents. These are the polymers or gums that stabilize a formulation.

Alternatives available to these stabilizers are not exactly different, but only different versions of these.

For example – Xanthan gum is the most common stabilizer used in the formulations of skincare products.

It makes the product sticky, tacky & hazy. To overcome this problem a new variant of the product is used as its alternative that gives a more clear & non tacky finished product.

Shortcomings- as such there is no shortcoming in using these alternatives to the traditional stabilizers.

They are easily available & easy to formulate. But all good things come with a price. They are a little more expensive than the traditional ones.

6. Preservatives

Every cosmetic formulation needs preservatives. Preservatives prevent a formulation from the growth of mold, fungi, or bacteria.

Preservatives like Triclosan, Formaldehyde, Methyl Paraben Sodium and Propyl Paraben Sodium are some of the most commonly used preservatives.

There are many claims that state that these preservatives disrupt the hormones especially the endocrine glands if repeated & long exposure is made to the skin.

Alternatives to these preservatives are paraben-free preservatives. These are Phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate, Ethylhexyl glycerin, Chlorphenesin, etc. Iscaguard has a variety of preservatives that are PARABEN FREE & broad spectrum too.

It has great efficacy in preserving a formulation from all sorts of microorganisms.

The shortcoming of these preservatives is their price. They are way more costly than parabens. But the best part is that they give broad spectrum preservation to the formula.

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7. Exfoliators

Exfoliators help in removing dead skin from the skin’s surface and aid in the regeneration of new skin cells. They help in skin rejuvenation and give a natural glow to the skin.

Traditionally Microplastic beads & plant based shell exfoliators were used in exfoliators. They are harsh to use on the skin & microplastics are dangerous not only to the environment but also to marine life.

Alternatives to these harsh exfoliators are chemical exfoliators, cellulose-based exfoliating beads, and plant-based mild abrasive exfoliators. They are skin and nature-friendly too.

The shortcoming of chemical exfoliators is that they might cause irritation to the skin if not used properly with proper precautions. Plant-based exfoliators should be used at the correct mesh size according to the nature of the formulation.

All good things come with a price. This is the same with sustainable skincare products. They are formulated with alternatives that not only benefit the skin but also our environment.

To be continued in Part 3……

By NIDHI GUDWANIAuthor is CEO at SKINAYU ORGANICS

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